The Mani Peninsula: A Wild Greek Paradise
The Mani region, nestled in the southern Peloponnese, Greece, has an undeniable allure that captivated renowned travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor. So much so, he and his wife, Joan, built their sanctuary just outside the village of Kardamyli, dividing their time between this idyllic spot and England.
In his book, "Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese," Leigh Fermor paints a picture of this place as a true paradise, describing it as "those Elysian confines of the world where Homer says that life is easiest for men; where no snow falls, no strong winds blow nor rain comes down, but the melodious west wind blows for ever from the sea to bring coolness to those who live there."
As I explore this region with my young children, I can't help but agree with his sentiment. Kardamyli, sheltered by the majestic Taygetus mountains, truly feels like a special haven. The barren mountain range, stretching roughly 62 miles from Morea to Cape Matapan, adds to the allure. Cape Matapan, the southernmost point of mainland Greece, is shrouded in mythology, said to be the mythical home of Hades, the god of the underworld.
During our mid-September visit, the weather was perfect - a balmy 29C. The sea was crystal clear and warm, and we could still enjoy al fresco dining in the evenings. We called Villa Koroneiki our home during this trip, one of the three new-build Katergo Villas, designed in the local tower-house style, reminiscent of mini fortresses.
The villa's owner, George Tsiligoneas, a local businessman, also runs a launderette, offering a convenient service for families like mine. It's a real game-changer to return home with a suitcase full of clean clothes! However, the small kitchen with limited drying space for dishes might be a minor downside for some. But hey, it's an excuse to indulge in the local cuisine and explore the nearby restaurants!
Our brilliant concierge, Arvin Gautama, not only provided us with a plethora of dining options but also brought a taste of home with his wife's homemade orange biscuits, instantly making us feel welcome.
The location of Villa Koroneiki is another plus. Situated on the coast path, we could easily walk to the charming village of Stoupa in 20 minutes, with its sheltered bay, little harbor, and waterfront shops and restaurants. Or, we could opt for a 30-minute stroll south to Agios Nikolaos, a village with a more local vibe but lacking a sandy beach.
The walk to Stoupa is particularly enjoyable, passing through olive groves, a large pen of chickens, and magnificent black turkeys. There's even a playground and a fantastic bakery where we became regulars for their cinnamon buns. Ammos Gyros, a low-key spot, served up the best chips and generous portions of gyros during our trip.
If you're planning a trip to the Mani, here's some essential information:
- Location: The Mani, southern Peloponnese, Greece
- Ideal for: Sun worshippers, food enthusiasts, and history buffs
- Insider Tip: Venture into the mountains and visit the high village of Tseria
As we explored further south, we discovered Gnospi, a swimming platform with step access. The water is immediately deep and a beautiful turquoise, making it unsuitable for young children. An elderly lady lent us a noodle float, allowing us to enjoy a brief dip. Gnospi also boasts a tiny chapel built into the rock face and, surprisingly, showers.
Agios Nikolaos, a 30-minute walk south, offers a more local experience with people sunbathing on rocks and breakfasting in cafés by the water.
Of course, a visit to the Leigh Fermor house is a must. Now run by the Benaki Museum and Aria Hotels, curious tourists can book a one-hour visit (£4.30; benaki.org). The house offers gorgeous sea views, a large living room filled with books, including "In Tearing Haste," a collection of letters between PLF and his friend Deborah Devonshire, and a well-stocked drinks trolley. Famous guests like Nancy Mitford, Bruce Chatwin, John Craxton, and John Betjeman have all enjoyed this space, and you can almost picture the fun they had on the vast terrace with its patterned pebble floor.
Kardamyli has certainly evolved since Leigh Fermor's time. He once predicted it would remain untouched by tourism due to its inaccessibility and lack of attractions. However, it now attracts devotees, like the German couple we met who have been visiting annually for the past 20 years. The village has a bouji vibe, with plenty of shops and a proper ice cream parlor offering unique flavors like mastic.
For a different beach experience, Ritsa, a five-minute drive north, offers a pebble beach with no shade but plenty of cool tavernas in the trees across the road. We particularly enjoyed Elies restaurant with its outdoor seating area surrounded by blooming hibiscus.
To escape the tourists, head into the hills. We embarked on a walk into the Vyros Gorge near Kardamyli and quickly left the tourist trail behind. Meeting only a couple of workmen repairing the path, we enjoyed a peaceful walk through the autumnal forest to Moni Sotiras, a church next to a dry riverbed filled with smooth boulders. The date 1807 scratched on a wall adds to the charm. During festivals, this place comes alive with pilgrimages, and the deep, sonorous bell still rings.
Tseria, one of the highest villages in the Peloponnese, is a must-visit. It's quiet and offers a stunning view over Messinian Bay. We even received a warm welcome from a local lady who gave my daughter a Mickey Mouse keyring.
For a taste of local culture and music, we visited the village of Pigi, a 15-minute drive into the mountains. Stathi's Tavern, next to the church, offered a lively atmosphere with Greek music and a delicious spread of starter dishes. The grey clouds overhead added to the charm, and we enjoyed the food and the company.
The mountains also hold treasures in the form of tiny Byzantine churches. St Nicholas at Maroulaina in Kastania, a 13th-century cross-vaulted church, features frescoes depicting a galleon being rowed over a broiling sea. St Peter's Church, on the other hand, offered a bat-filled surprise! We also climbed the 18th-century Dourakis tower and imagined relaxing in the square next door under the shade of a large horse chestnut tree.
If you're looking for a unique and wild Greek experience, the Mani Peninsula is a must-visit. From its stunning natural beauty to its rich history and culture, it offers an unforgettable journey. So, pack your bags and explore this hidden gem for yourself!
